This fabric basket has 3 layers. You can choose to make it out of 3 different fabrics for a really-cool pieced look, or you can use 1 fabric. The link below is for the 3 fabric pieced look.
Here are my pieces all cut and ready to go.
Once all your pieces are cut out, separate them into 2 identical stacks.
Stack 1 (A,B,C)
Stack 2 (A,B,C)
Now before you begin sewing, please note that this pattern includes 1/2" seam allowances throughout. I'm using 1/2", because it gives you a bigger seam to work with and I feel it is better with handbag, basket, etc construction.
Sew Piece A to B (right sides together). Press seams open
Sew Piece A/B to Piece C (right sides together). Press seams open
Do the same process with Stack 2.
You should now have 2 pieces (front/back...or left/right, however you want to think of it) that look like the below photo.
Now this is where you need to decide if you need to use interfacing or not. Interfacing will give your fabric basket some structure/support so it doesn't collapse. If you are using quilting-weight cottons, I would highly suggest using a mid-weight interfacing. If you are using a slightly heavier upholestry fabric, you'll want to consider using a light-weight interfacing. If you are using a canvas/twill/denim...no need for interfacing.
Make sure your seams for the Front & Back are pressed open and following the manufacturer's instructions, marry the interfacing and pieces together. The interfacing is purposely cut a 1/2" smaller (around all edges), so try and center it accordingly.
***This is where I did some topstitching along the seam lines (1/4" on the top and bottom) of piece A,B,C. Unfortunately I don't have a picture to show you this. Not only did the topstitching add some extra interest; but it helped secure the interfacing to the Front & Back pieces.
Next step is to sew the Front & Back together along the edges. Put right sides together, matching the seam lines, and sew down one edge.
This is what you should have when you unfold your piece.
Match up the other side and do the same thing. Make sure that you press your seams open when finished. If you want you can do the same 1/4" topstitching along the side seams...it's entirely up to you.
Next, with right sides together, match your two bottom seams and sew.
This next part is a little hard to describe; but I'm going to try.
Remember those (4"x4") squares that you cut out of the lower corners. By removing them, you have allowed the basket to create a 3D shape.
When looking at your flattened shape (right sides still together), it should look something like the below illustration. The next step is to sew the 2 corners together (as marked Point OO below).
Your bag will look something like this when pinned.
Make sure you match Points OO and have the basket right sides together.
Sew your 1/2" seam from edge to edge.
Do the same to the other corner.
It should now look something like this **Note that in the below pic, my interfacing was cut too short (ignore that).
Now turn your basket right sides out, and you should see something that resembles this.
If you haven't ever tried something like this, pat yourself on the back. You're almost to the end.
Now onto the lining. Bring out your lining pieces that you previously cut.
With right sides together, you'll sew the right and left seams.
Next, you'll sew the bottom seam; but make sure to leave about a 4" gap at the center. Otherwise you won't be able to turn your basket inside out.
Sew your (Point OO) corners together. Don't turn the bag, leave the right side (on the inside).
Along the top of the lining, you'll want to make sure you find the center. You can pull out your ruler, or do like I did and just fold the basket in half. Mark it with a pencil, pen, or even a little cut.
Open up the Lining and place the the exterior bag inside of it. Right sides together.
It should look something like this.
It's important to match up side seam to side seam. Or you can do like me and match side seam to the center pencil, pen, slice you made. If you don't match one or the other together, your basket won't work.
Pin the top edges together (Lining and Basket Exterior).
Put the basket on your sewing machine and sew along the top edge. Make sure you are still using your 1/2" seam allowance.
Clip all extra threads.
Remember that 4" gap at the bottom the basket lining. Go find it and carefully turn the basket right sides out, pulling 1 through the other. When you have done that, it should look something like this.
Find that 4" gap again and sew it closed. You can hand-sew it, or for speeds-sake, put it on your sewing machine and use a 1/4" seam allowance.
Gently push the lining inside the basket, trying to make a clean sharp edge along the top. Press with an iron and pin.
To finish the top edge and make sure that the lining doesn't move, you'll need to do a 1/4" topstitching.
Your 3rd Floor Fabric Basket is almost done.
I knew that I needed to tack the lining to the basket bottom, just so it wouldn't move around when you started using the basket. So I came up with a cute idea.
Go find 2 small buttons and some thread that will coordinate with your basket.
Make sure your lining is just how you want it inside the basket. Place your buttons where you want them and sew. Some examples include in the corners, along the center seam, wherever. The key is that you are using them to tack the lining to the bottom.
You are now 100% done. YAY!!! Admire your work, and I highly encourage you to take a photo.
Thanks for playing along with me, as I try to show you how to make a fairly simple fabric basket. If you use my tutorial to make a basket, please link back to it to let everyone know.
And don't forget to share some photos or comments below.